Who can forget the ever-changing blooms of hydrangeas — changing blue in acidic soil, pink in that with more lime and reminiscent of those science class projects using litmus paper. And then of course the white hydrangeas, with blooms resembling large snowballs that as children would often amaze us.
As adults, they still do, which is why growing hydrangeas is so much fun. They’re not only easy to grow but are also quite hardy and resistant to most pests and diseases, making it even easier to care for hydrangeas. And with numerous varieties to choose from, you’re certain to find one that’s right for you. Bill Bird, from Jonker's Garden joined us in studio to share some tips on how to keep your hydrangeas happy.
Growing Hydrangeas
Although there are many types of hydrangeas, most can be grown in full sun or partial shade. Keep in mind, however, that many hydrangeas do not like extremely hot conditions, so try to locate them in an area where they can enjoy some afternoon shade. While they can be grown in a wide range of soils, hydrangeas typically prefer rich, moist soil that drains easily. Amending the soil with compost prior to planting is helpful. Hydrangea planting should be performed in spring once the threat of frost has passed. Water thoroughly after planting. You can also add a layer of mulch following hydrangea planting.
Hydrangea Care Guide
Water is an important factor when you care for hydrangeas. They enjoy deep watering at least once a week, especially in dry weather. Hydrangeas also benefit from an occasional boost of fertilizer once or twice a year in spring or summer. Hydrangeas can also be transplanted easily, but this should only be done during dormancy in fall or winter. Be sure to dig up the entire rootball and replant immediately. Since flowers are produced on new growth, you should prune hydrangeas once their blooming has ceased.
Pruning Care for Hydrangeas
As there are many types of hydrangeas, pruning and care of hydrangeas may differ slightly with each. The most common types of hydrangea are the Mopheads and Lacecaps (H. macrophylla). These are the varieties with large, globe-shaped flowers that many of us remember as kids. Pruning for these usually takes place in late summer.
The Oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) is another commonly grown variety. With its unique fall color and oakleaf-shaped foliage, this variety usually provides year-round interest. It also tolerates drier conditions. Oakleaf is best pruned in early spring.
Panicle (H. paniculata), or Pee Gee, exhibits white flowers in summer, which gradually turn pink. Prune to remove spent blooms and thin or cut back the plant in late winter/early spring.
H. arborescens ‘Grandiflora’, or Hills of Snow hydrangea, should be pruned to the ground each winter or early spring as well.
The hydrangea vine or climbing hydrangea (H. anomala) doesn’t usually require pruning but may be done in order to keep the new shoots under control.
Growing hydrangeas is easy, as is the care of hydrangeas. These beautiful bushes reward you each year magnificent blooms that will instantly take you back to those fond childhood days.
.Hydrangea Fertilizer for Proper Hydrangea Care and Feeding
Hydrangea care and feeding is fairly simple once you learn some basic rules. Specially formulated hydrangea fertilizer is available but isn’t really necessary. A good all purpose 12-4-8 to 10-10-10 composition will provide all the fertilizing hydrangeas need. Either a chemical source or organic matter can be used successfully.
Applying a once a year slow-release chemical formulated for shrubs and trees is the simplest solution to hydrangea care and feeding. A less expensive fast-release compound will work as well. As to what to use to naturally fertilize hydrangeas, a combination of sulfur, compost and peat moss has proved to be a successful hydrangea fertilizer.
When and How to Feed Hydrangeas
How to fertilize hydrangeas is just as important as what you’re fertilizing hydrangeas with. Fertilizer burn can occur when too much is applied. Scorched looking leaves are the first sign of too much fertilizing. Hydrangeas should be lightly dressed with fast-release fertilizer in March, May, and July.
Be sure to spread it around the drip line of the branches and not the base. Water well. If the fertilizer you choose is a slow-release type, remember to lightly cover it with soil to activate the fertilizer. How to feed hydrangeas should also include a light bi-annual dose of liquid iron to keep the leaves a healthy green.
A discussion of how to fertilize hydrangeas wouldn’t be complete without mentioning the addition of small amounts of sulfur or lime when fertilizing to change hydrangea color. Hydrangeas treated with sulfur will remain or turn blue. Lime results in pink and a change to either color takes time.
Please note: white hydrangeas will not change color. Gardeners who practice good hydrangea care and feeding will be rewarded with luxurious foliage and glorious blooms.
Can hydrangeas grow in pots?
It’s a good question, since the potted hydrangeas given as gifts rarely last more than a few weeks. The good news is that they can, as long as you treat them right. And since they can get
quite big and produce stunning blossoms all summer long, growing hydrangeas in pots is well worth it. Keep reading to learn more about container grown hydrangea plants and care for hydrangea in pots.
How to Care for Hydrangea in Pots
Store bought potted hydrangeas usually languish because a small container on the kitchen table is less than ideal. Hydrangeas like lots of sun and water. Indoors, the sun can be gotten from placing it in a south-facing window, but the water is best achieved by transplanting it to a larger container that doesn’t dry out as quickly.
Hydrangeas in the garden like full sun, but this dries out the soil in containers much too quickly. Place your hydrangeas in a spot that receives full sun in the morning and some shade in the afternoon to keep it from drying out.
Move your hydrangea to a pot that is several inches wider in diameter than the one it came in, and make sure it has drainage holes. Leave about three inches of space between the surface of the potting mix and the rim of the pot. Water your container grown hydrangea plants by filling the pot to the brim with water, letting it drain, and repeating.
Subsequent hydrangea container care is relatively easy too. As hydrangeas grow, they can get very large. You can choose a dwarf variety from the beginning or you can prune your full sized hydrangea back. Just check the variety you have before you prune. Some hydrangeas grow flowers on old growth, and some on new. You don’t want to accidentally prune away all of the summer’s potential flowers.
Growing hydrangeas in pots in the winter requires some protection. Move your container into a cool but not cold garage or basement. Water it moderately, then bring it back outside when spring temperatures climb.
Winter Protection
This time of year there's always a lot of conversation about over-wintering Hydrangea macrophyllas that form flower buds in late summer. Left unprotected, these tender morsels often dry up and die, preventing the shrub from flowering the following summer. This group of hydrangeas includes lacecaps, mopheads and the popular "Endless Summer."
Eric Grant, tropical manager and plant guru at Telly's Nursery in Troy, says he's had good success getting his "Nikko Blue" Hydrangea macrophylla to bloom by using the anti-transpirant Wilt Pruf to protect the tender flower buds over the winter. One secret to his success is timing. Grant waits until the shrub has gone dormant to apply the protective spray. When the leaves shrivel and drop, usually around Thanksgiving, Grant applies the spray. Just be sure the temperature reaches at least 40 degrees for a minimum of 4 hours when the application is made.
To take winter protection a step further, wrap the shrubs in burlap. A cage surround made of metal fencing or hardware cloth, available at hardware stores, makes a good support frame and also prevents rabbits and deer from damaging the shrubs. Stuffing the cage with fall leaves adds another layer of protection. Another good protective covering is a large gray garbage can with its top cut off. Three or four long steel rebar rods stuck into the ground and extending a couple of feet in the air will hold the garbage can in place.